Diamonds: Engagements
Rings through the Ages
The engagement ring's romantic traditions resonate
throughout time. The Romans first introduced the betrothal ring as a plain,
iron hoop. Among the gentry, the iron ring was worn while indoors and replaced
with the more valuable gold band when outdoors. As early as the 4th century AD,
inscriptions, elaborate or as simple as "honey," embellished the
inside of the band. According to Macrobius, a 5th century Roman writer, the
betrothal ring was worn on the fourth finger of the left hand. It was believed
that from that finger a special vein ran directly to the heart. To this day,
the centuries-old custom of wearing an engagement ring in this way has endured.
During the Middle Ages, sapphires and rubies initially
adorned the engagement ring, while diamonds were incorporated in the 15th
century. The earliest written record of the use of a diamond in an engagement
ring was in 1477 by a Dr. Moroltinger, who was advising the future Holy Roman
Emperor Maximillian to have a ring set with a diamond for his betrothal to Mary
of Burgundy. Resisting fire and steel, diamonds stood for the fortitude of a
lifelong partnership. Early cutting techniques caused gems to look dull and
even black, according to the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), which is
considered the world's foremost authority in the grading and identification of
diamonds and other gem material. Compensating for these lackluster stones,
goldsmiths designed elaborate settings, composed of such romantic notions as
rosettes and fleur-de-lis, symbolizing the bride's purity.
More ephemeral than the diamond ring, the rush ring was
hastily made from leaves or grass and lasted in many cases as long as the
short-lived engagement. A more enduring and popular 16th century ring, the fede
(Italian for faith) betrothal ring signified a marriage's immutability in its
central image of two clasped hands.
With the discovery of diamonds in Brazil in the 18th
century, diamond jewelry became more readily available, and diamond cluster
engagements rings were in vogue. A common cluster design consisted of small
rose-cut diamonds arranged around a larger center stone.
Widespread wealth, initiated by the 19th century's
Industrial Revolution and the rich supply of newly discovered African diamond
mines, made diamonds available to a greater public. Diamond experts at GIA also
note that this period was marked by revolutionary developments in cutting and
polishing, resulting in diamonds revealing a brilliance greater than any other
gem. The diamond now could stand alone, and thus, the solitaire engagement ring
became fashionable.
The simple elegance of the classic Tiffany mounting,
introduced in 1886 by Charles L. Tiffany, offered an ideal complement to the
beauty of the diamond. With the diamond set high in an open, six-prong
mounting, the design permitted greater amounts of light to enter the gem,
allowing it to exhibit maximum brilliance. Given all the choices that are
available to couples today, not only can they choose an engagement ring that
represents a centuries-old symbol of love and tradition, but more importantly,
a ring that is a personal expression of themselves.
For more information contact Le Jeans Jewelers at
407-788-7156 or send us an email at sales@lejeans.com